#Tengami count symbols on shrine driver

The shrine of the peacocks at Kalar Kahar too highlights the fact that such folk religious traditions adopted local geographical features into their devotional framework. With the arrival of tourists and their irreverent fascination with the peacocks their number decreased here. Till a few years ago, before the construction of Motorway brought along an influx of tourists, peacocks would strut around the shrine all day along.

Just a few kilometres from here, in the small town of Kalar Kahar, atop another mountain is the shrine of Mooranwali Sarkar (Master of the Peacocks).Īt the time of sunrise, when the tourist rush at the shrine is at its lowest, dozens of peacocks waltz around the courtyard of the shrine that overlooks the natural lake, around which the town of Kalar Kahar is populated.Ī handful of devotees offer them food and seek their blessings, regarding them to be the loyal pets of the saint interred here. This is a particular feature of small Sufi shrines. The shrine was attuned with its geographical surroundings. This entire mountain range, known as Salt Range, is one of the largest depositories of rock salt in the world. Not inclined towards institutional religion, he is particularly attracted to Sufi shrines, referred to as folk religion by academics, where the freedom allotted to its devotees is more aligned with his rebellious nature.

#Tengami count symbols on shrine driver

“The shrine is called Khara Peer,” said my driver, as he noticed me observing the shrine’s silhouette on the top of the mountain on one of these trips.Ī young man, my driver belongs to a small village not far from here. Before the technology of pumps, pilgrims used to carry water pots to the top for other pilgrims, as a religious duty. Every day, dozens of pilgrims climb this steep mountain, a trek of about two hours to pay homage to the Sufi saint. The Gurdwara Panja Sahib, at the base of the mountain, atop which is the shrine of Wali Qandhari commemorates this interaction. Visitors to the site are expected to climb the mountain as pilgrims once did.įurther north, deep within the Hazara territory is the shrine of the Muslim Sufi saint Wali Qandhari, who had a confrontation with Guru Nanak and was humbled. There is still no path that leads to the top.

The tradition is similar to other religious pilgrimages in the region.Ī little north from here is the historical temple complex called Tilla Jogian, a pilgrimage site for jogis in Punjab, abandoned at the time of Partition. The difficulty of the journey is part of the spiritual process. Scattered all over the Potohar Plateau, there are several such Sufi shrines on hilltops, to which pilgrims are expected to hike. A flag swaying atop the shrine testifies that pilgrims still visit it. Just before the Jhelum River, as the Salt Range and Potohar Plateau gradually merge into the plane of Punjab, I always a notice a small isolated shrine located on the top of a hill. Black border.At least once a month, I drive down to Lahore from Islamabad using the Motorway.

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